Evening.

That afternoon was the warmest I have experienced. There was no way we could be outside so we decided to stay in. The flat is always pretty cool but yesterday was just horrific. We were sweating and sweating ... We were trying not to move too much but nothing worked. Even the air conditionning did not help. At 2100 it was still boiling. It is never humid but the air was so warm and 5 minutes of walking and you're already sweating. Just horrible really.

Anyway at 2200 we went to la corrida with Dustyn. I really did not want to go again but I guess I wanted them to experience the whole thing. It was pretty much the same thing as last time. But more guys fell over and it was just not a pleasant two hours. But we were properly equipped like the Spanish with pipas, kikos and patatas fritas!

After churros, we had dinner and Dustyn went off. We then went to this cool bar in the north of Seville, where we met French guys from Paris. They were cool but I just hated the idea of being with Parisians in Seville... So we went to Plaza Europa. Apparently it is the place to be in Seville and it was indeed quite cool. I don't usually like that type of thing but it was impressive. All outside, in white, with sorts of fountains everywhere and the DJ. He was just so good. The music was excellent. Really really good. After a couple of hours though I was pretty tired and so we headed off home...!

Pescaito Frito.

 Thursday morning I headed off to my lesson. Yolanda forgot about me. I had to wait 20 minutes in front of her house and then she finally showed up. She had been at the gym and since most of her other lessons were finishing for the summer she forgot about me! I got an extra half hour free so I guess it was worth the wait. We've started the conditionnal tense... 

 After my lesson we went to have lunch on that little yellow café on top of a bridge I had been to before. We had delicious marinated piments and the best tuna I've ever had. I don't really get excited about tuna but this one was perticularly delicious. We also had a Seville speciality pescaito frito. I'm not a huge fan of fried food but this was delicious. The fish was so fresh and the coating too. It went down really well. There was a mixture (as you can maybe see on the picture) of sardines, chunks of cod, squid and another quite big fish...  It was so good. 

Cine de Verano.

After our little trip to Ronda we were pretty tired so we decided to have a chilled out evening so we headed off to the Cine de Verano. It's literally 30 seconds outside my house. It's an outdoor cinema screen and only €3!!

It was huge and really quite impressive, in the Disputacion de Seville, a really beautiful building. That evening was the film called The Kids Are Alright, an American film but with Spanish voices... It was not too bad and I understood everything even though there were not any subtitles!

The film was okay. The idea was a good one: illustrating a new type of family with two lesbian mothers and their kids but the plot was not amazing. It was funny though.

(Ronda)

More Ronda.

Ronda.

We visited Ronda, a little village, pueblo blanco, situated 2 hours from Seville, near Malaga. I think the photos say everything.

Here are some not so typical but really tasty tapas we had:

Salmon marinated in lemon and vanilla

Ensalada rusa

Croquetas

Jackson.

After a delicious paella we had a wonder to the park. While crossing the University we saw the American guy Dustyn (yes with a y) having a siesta in the University. After waking him up we went to dip our feet with him in the lovely cool very cool fuentes in Parque Maria Luisa.

We got to know him a little more. He's from San Fransisco, with a cool accent (nothing like MTV) and going round Europe this summer.  Very interestingly studies Arabic and International Relations. Cool huh?  It was just roasting 47°C at 6 o'clock and nothing seemed to cool us down... It was just unpleasant. So we popped back home.

After drinks on my roof we met back up with the American and went to Plaza Alfafa to meet up with Marc and some friends of his. We had a few tapas, jamon and croquetas. Yum. Then Marc arrived casually late as they always are here. His friends left after a drink so it was Marc, Dustyn and us! We all got on brilliantly. It was very very fun. Spoke in Spanish, of course.

We ended the night in a Jazz club, called Jackson, that Marc knew. His flatmate (lesbian joined us!). She was cool too. We got back late at 0500. But I guess it's inevitable when the first act of the evening was 0300. They really do live during the night.

I don't know why but it was a very clumsy evening for me. Dropped my glass twice on Dustyn. As I opened the box of toothpicks they flew everywhere in the tapas bar. Bumped into someone on Marc's bike. Broke the tap in Jackson... It was just a disaster.

I'd also like to point out at how little little little the Spanish drink. It's amazing. Two beers max in an evening! Cool for me

Our coach for Ronda was at 0900. Mmm.

El Rinconcillo.

Tuesday night we had early dinner at El Rinconcillo, the oldest tapas bar in Seville and where tapas were invented! We had delicious spinachs (they cook it with different types of spices here, so tasty), fish, chorizo and huevas. Huevas I was told was fish. But I never even thought about asking what part of the fish it is...

Therefore when a sort of long intestine arrived on the table we were relatively shocked. It's the uterus (well where the eggs are kept) of the fish. The taste was quite smokey but the texture just bizarre. So we gave it to a couple next to us.

What I thought was utterly cool that evening was that we had dinner next to the singer of La Carboneria (flamenco place!) How local have I become?!

Then we went to La Carboneria.. had a better seat this time. It was great fun. Then we met an italian student who was with other students. We had a drink with them then joined another group of people. It became clear we were with Erasmus people. We were about twelve, most of them didn't know each other. It was so nice, all different cultures and countries... There was a Mexican, German, Italian, Spanish x4, French, Hollander, American and English! The subjects of study varied from philosophy to psycology to economics and science! It was a very nice evening...

Covents and biscuits.

Monday we went to la Macarena to visit an old covent. The myth says that these nuns are not allowed to go out of their covent nor see anybody from the outside world. They earn a living by making sweets and selling them to the public...

We arrive after 2 hours of walking (bit further than I thought) to this magnificent building. We ring the  door bell, the nun answers and tells us to go through the first two doors go along the path and turn right and through the second door. It was a sort of treasure hunt. We enter the immaculate patio. There was no one to be seen nor any open doors so we wonder round pretty lost. They must have lots of fun seeing all the tourists come in, getting lost and looking really quite stupid.

Finally our waiting in the sun in a dead covent ordeal was over. A nun calls us over and through a little door. There she stood behind a counter, it was dark and we could barely see her. We were separated by sort of wooden bars. We order our biscuits (almond an lemon biscuits that were so delicious, I can't even find a word). We put the money on a little tray that turns and gives her the money... Then she puts the biscuits in the tray twists the whole mechanism and off we go...

It was all quite fun and the biscuits were utterly delicious.

Spanish night out. Take two.

As we got back Cristina was sleeping on the sofa. She was knackered from her weekend after 2 hours sleep and 9 hours of doing massages. Bless. But it was Santa Cristina which is celebrated as much as a birthday here in Spain. Seeing how tired she was we decided to celebrate the following day.

So we go up to have tinto de verano on the roof with little pipas (sunflower seeds) to watch the sunset. Cheesy but so lovely. At around 2300 we come back down to find Cristina and two of her friends. Ivan a moreno, very caliente 20 year old and Rakel who had one of those faces you could never get annoyed with. They were both so much fun. They tell us we're going out. So we get ready in 10 minutes and hop out the door.

After meeting up with other girls we have a bite to eat and head off to Calle Betis. They were all so chilled and just the opposite of the people the previous night. Such a relief. I guess the night only really started at 2300 but because you're not waiting all the time it was not a problem!

(This is the view from my terrace. Yes, there is a big fat crane but hopefully it'll go soon..)

We stroll down and everybody was dancing, eating, drinking. We bumped into a guy from Couch Surfing. An American from California. He was just the goofiest person and very fun. The Spanish girls loved him as he was blond with blue eyes and after making them dance on a song from Grease they were charmed. Then the more Spanish music came on so I got a salsa lesson. I mean I cannot dance. And the whole thing was a disaster... But very fun. Ivan was very patient and yet just crying the whole thing was so funny. Thanks Dad for the good genes.  Then it was time for la sevillana (the dance every one knows how to dance here which is similar to flamenco). Got that a little quicker and the girls just could not get enough of me doing it. In September if I am to become a real bull I will have to master the art of this dance.

We then bumped in to some more of their friends. Cristina presented me as her little sister!! Which meant a lot! Does that make me a bull?

At 0500 the party started to end. So we all walked back home. The Spanish way. Which  meant each time they start talking to you they stop walking. They just seem to have all the time in the world. A 15 minutes walk took one hour.

All in all it was very fun. Tonight we're going back for a drink and food with them. Shall be fun.

La Casa Cuesta.

After a slow departure we left for la Triana. At the moment it is Feria Santa Ana so Calle Betis, the road that runs along the river is packed full of bars, terraces and things to do. La Triana is all decorated with lights and lanterns everywhere as well as a stage! Probably for flamenco.

We went to have lunch at Casa Cuenta. An old tapas bars, with original tiling, jamon hanging of the ceilings, wooden tables and a quirky interior design. The food was just delicious. We had croquetas, a sort of potatoe salad with olive oil, garlic, tomatoes, peppers and seasoning and grilled merle. Very tasty.

Then we went for a wonder round la Triana, one of my favourite places in Seville.

We then stopped off at Kioske de las Flores where we had a gazpacho. They are so fresh it's the perfect thing to cool down.  This place is absolutely stunning. On the edge of the river, just in front of Torre del Oro and with a suggestion of la Giralda it is one of the best spots to eat.

Oslo.

Comme beaucoup ce qui vient de se passer en Norvège me perturbe. 


Ce qui est intéressant c'est que nul part il y a écrit que c'est un terroriste, seulement 'murderer', 'killer' etc.

Alors que c'est un terroriste et s'il avait été musulman tout de suite on l'aurait appelé un terroriste. Le fait qu'il soit blond aux yeux bleus ne veut pas dire que c'est pas un terroriste. Et rien que cela illustre un problème dans les médias...  

Il y a un vrai problème dans le monde, d'incompréhension. Je sais pas.. In Afghanistan the United States and other are (supposedly) fighting against the Talibans which is necessary. But then you have people with as bad mentallities in the West. It's like we're fighting against terrorists and extremists in the Middle East and what they are going to do? Come here to fight against terrorists and extremists that are against Islam in the West. It is just so absurd. 

He was Christian. I think all Christians out there will not relate to him nor say that they believe in the same things he does or agree with him in any way. It is the same for Islam. Yet so many Muslims out there are suffering for the acts of a bunch of people. Imagine it was the other way round and that countries in the Middle East came to the West to eliminate such terrorists... We'd hate being put in the same basket as Breivik. 

Anyway I don't really know what I'm talking about but all I know is that there is something really not right. 

Spanish night out. Mmm.

Saturday night. We were invited to Cristina's friend's birthday. I had no desire to go clubbing in Seville but I decided for one night to follow Cristina and see how a Spanish night out was like.

Firstly you get ready for about 3 hours. Minimum. The Spanish are  immaculate when they go out. Boys as well as girls. It is the opposite of France where it is best to look as if you have not even tried to dress up but look stunning. No. Here it is all about who has the most talent at doing her make-up and hair. So they take ages. In 30 minutes I was ready. And therefore bored. So I chit chat to Cristina and she told me her sister was worse than her. Her sister would rewash her hair if she wasn't happy with the end result. And do the whole thing over again. They are very chilled nation and just like taking their time at doing everything... It's nearly an art. We went to have gazpacho next door, it was so fresh and delicious.

I convinced Cristina at 1130 to go for a drink because the evening was already feeling long. She agreed. Thank god. We went to our local little bar. I think it is the worst service I have ever seen. It's so bad it's funny. They are lovely but so so slow. I mean you have to wait 10 minutes for them to ask you what you want to drink and another 15 minutes for your drink and then the bill... 20 minutes.. But since there is no hurry for anything here it's not a problem...

Then we were meeting up with some of her friends. We walked for about 15 minutes to Plaza Alfalfa. I lively Plaza in Seville. We got there at around 1230 and there were dozens of children still playing and running around. Crazy huh? After waiting for quite a while for her friends we went back to one of the girl's house. Apparently we were having before drinks there. One of the girls when we got there was still not ready. It was about 0100. Crazy.

So we had drinks in the flat. Most people were from Malaga and there was one tortoise called Manuela in a tub full of water. Literally. I am not the worst pet owner.

Just a quick description of the flat, more a studio actually... I have never seen anything like it. The walls were covered in poster size pictures of the girl who lived there, called Mai posing as if she was a model. Her face and her striking a pose in a bikini or dressed up was on every wall. I just could not keep a straight face. I told Cristina and she found the whole thing hilarious... I guess this is not common then in Spain. It was crazy. I mean even family pictures all over the walls is weird.. and friends too I find but of yourself?!!!

Mai finished getting ready at 0130. She finally came out of the bathroom and after a tiny bit of encouragement (she did not need much pushing) she started singing. Flamenco. She had a good voice, to be fair.. But the whole thing was so cliché! I couldn't believe it. Then this guy Ricardo starts singing too. They clap hands and  dance Sevillana (which is similar to flamenco but a little different). The whole thing was a little surreal. I was just thinking what on earth am I doing here. But I guess in it's own way it was fun and more importantly soso Spanish.

But a guitar was missing. So they all decide that we treck to this other girl's flat who has a guitar so that they can do the whole thing properly, singing, dancing, clapping, guitar before they could go to the girl's birthday.

So at 0200 we leave again to this other girl's flat. They do the whole thing with the guitar... We got chit chatting to a couple of people. One of the girls had lived in Birmingham... We had something in common! Mmm.

At 0330 they were starting to think about going to that club... I guess the fact it was already so late saved me and we managed to fly off before getting there. I just could not do it. But I guess I got a very good feel at what a Spanish before party was like... An interesting experience.

So we went to Calle Betis in La Triana for a chilled drink next to the river. We discovered that it was la Feria de Santa Ana. This means pretty much the whole population of Seville was there. There was a very good lively mood and with the fresh air coming from the river it was lovely. Much nicer than going clubbing. By miles.

Clouds in Seville.

I had not seen any clouds since I arrived, pretty much forgotten they existed... But it this is the second morning I've woken up under a grey whitish London sky... What is happening?

The sun came out at around 1200 yesterday. The clouds vanished and the sky was once again clean and blue yet only 32°C which is utterly chilly for Seville. It is perfect weather but very rare.. Which is making me a little scared.. I think Seville is getting ready for a big temperature rise next week. They predicted 45°C. So I'm getting mentally ready for a scorching week!

As I watched the weather forecast I cannot help but think what an easy job they have. Forecasting the weather for Andalusia in the summer. Every single day they show big suns all around southern Spain followed by a message of how it will be warm and therefore how you must drink fluids.

More pictures of Córdoba.

The Mezquita seen from the outside. 

Mezquita more.

Then my camera ran out of battery. Great.

So in the 16th century part of the mosque was destroyed to accomodate this Cathedral. It features an Italianate dome.

The whole thing is just as it is bizarre than it is unique.  It's like Jesus next to arabic calligraphy and azulejos next to a cross...

It really is the best of both put in one. The Mihrab was my favourite bit. Unfortunately I don't have pictures. It's a prayer niche richly richly richly ornamented and it held a guilt copy of the Qu'ran.

Top: You can see the Cathedral at the back and how it blends in with the columns of the Mosque.

The bell tower Torre del Almina which used to be a minaret tower is beautiful but not as fab as the Giralda here in Sevilla.

Then I went to visit an old synagogue. It is one of the last three in Spain.

The whole day was such a mixture of religions and cultures.  I spent the afternoon in a little bar where I ended up having coffee with two policemen off duty ( a guy and a woman) and the boss of the bar a lively 60 year old.

I have discovered that in Spain the way to have your coffee is pour an expresso in a glass full of ice cubes. Cafe con helos. Delicious and so refreshing.  But my tummy did not like it and I felt a little rough all evening. Nice.

Mezquita.

I had lunch on a terrace. Chorizo al vino and marmossa (a sort of dip with olive oil, aubergine and egg). It was delicious. Then I was offered a vino dulces from Andalusia. Very fine but so sweet.

Then I went to visit the Mezquita.

The Mezquita is a great mosque, dating back 12 centuries and in the 16th century a cathedral was built inside the mosque.

You enter through the patio de los Naranjos. Trees filled with oranges glitter in the sun. It is where faithfuls used to wash before prayer.

Then you walk inside. BAM. You are surrounded by arches and pillars. 850 of them columns of granite, jasper and marble support the roof. It creates an stunning visual effect. I was just blown away.

It is very dark and cool inside and it was hard to take pictures.

Then you suddenly find yourself in a cathedral.

Juderia.

Walking through the tiny streets of Juderia (old jewish quarter), the heart of Córdoba, it feels not much has changed since the 10th century. At that time Córdoba was the Western capital of the Islamic empire, rivalling Baghdad in wealth, power and sophistication. When you walk through Córdoba and see the Mezquita, you understand why. 

The streets are tiny, so tiny that cars cannot drive through. The balconies are packed full of brightly coloured flowers that look charming on the whitewashed walls. 

Then you suddenly hit these enormous sandy coloured walls... 

... the Mezquita

Córdoba.

45 minutes away from Seville lies Córdoba, a small Andalousian village with one of the most beautiful pieces of architecture in the World: Córdoba Cathedral and the Mesquita. 


I arrived by train (thanks to my interail) I went to visit a little museum which used to be an old charity hospital. Now it's contains pieces of work which capture the soul of Córdoba from Julio Romero Torres who was born in this house. Bottom left: picture of the museum.

More photos of Parque Maria Luisa.

A bin truck passed through this passage leaving a trail of dust and with the sun it looked stunning. The smell was nauseating. 

Museo artes y costumbres populares.

Beautiful museum about the customs and popular arts of Seville. It also had the work of a photographer from Seville. It displayed his pictures from Marocco. They were beautiful and it struck me how similar the architecture was in Marocco and here. I also learnt that a lot of the azulejo art dates back from the 20th century and not the 15th century like I thought! When other cities experienced a modern flow of art well Sevillanos did not like it and went back to there roots. The azulejos come from La Triana and are not actually that old! I definitely prefer it to modern art architecture. What do you think?

Photo.

Carlos, Bélen and me in front of the restaurant.  

Interail.

Today is the day my Interail pass starts. Woop. One month of travelling through Spain. First on the list Cordoba, followed by Barcelona, Madrid, Grenada, Zaragoza, Valencia, Bilbao and Salamanca!

Tonight we were supposed to go to the Cine de Verano, just outside our place, but unfortunately I ran out of money. So we stayed in with Cristina and made friends with our neighbours, like two old ladies at their balcony. After a little tinto de verano party I'm now off to bed.

I had my first PG tips tonight. The first after two weeks of abstention. It was so delicious I had a second one, hence I'm wide awake at 0245.

But in 6 hours I'm off to the bank to exchange some travellers' checks. Very 80's but very good rates. I recommend it. A good way to stay in budget too.

Tomorrow Cordoba then I'm going to this old school cinema in Seville to see Woody Allen's latest film. In English but with Spanish subtitles. A good start no?

Buena noche a todo (as said in Seville, they don't pronounce the 's' at the end of words!)

Bar Coloniales.

As I joined Marc, a proper hippy nurse for Médecins Sans Frontière, thousands of people started gathering round the river. Both of us having only arrived weeks ago had no clue what was going on. Suddenly as we approach the bridge we see the Virgin Mary on a boat followed my dozens and dozens of other boats. People were singing, carrying candles, the police were omnipresent making sure nothing happened to the Virgin Mary. It was pretty spectacular and very funny. It was definitely a side of Sevillanos I had not seen. Spain was and definitely remains an uber catholic country. 

After that little surprise parade, we fell on this beautiful bar. It had a sort of South American touch with benches and swinging sofas, with lanterns hanging off willow trees and turquoise embroided cushions. It was very nice. We first sat under the trees but then a bird decided to poop on Marc's hand so we swiftly moved away, on the swinging sofas!  

After a refreshing tinto de verano we cycled to Bar Coloniales. On our way we passed by Seville's mushrooms. They are humongous modern art mushrooms and under lies an old Roman city. It is intact and you can see the detailed mosaic floors and well as the layout of houses. It was breathtaking. 

                               

Bar Coloniales is one of the best tapas bar in Seville. It was packed full of locals. When you arrive they put your name on a chalk board and once they have a free table they shout out your name. Quite fun. We had aubergines cooked in garlic and this type of gazpacho sauce, then amazing beef with Roquefort sauce and potatoes cooked in olive oil and finally quail's egg on Serrano ham and bread. It was delicious. All that with drinks was nine euros. I will definitely go again. 

San Marco.

This is where Carlos and Bélen (family friends) invited me for dinner last night. These used to be Arab  Baths and they have been refurbished into a restaurant. It was utterly stunning and delicious.  

Lime trees.

In the gardens of the Cathedral. Can you see the lime in the trees? Gives you an idea at how warm it is here.

Up in La Giralda.

I then climbed up the bell tower in hope of a stunning view of Seville. You climb up slopes (not steps) as they used to go up there by horse! The whole think makes it a lot easier and accessible to wheelchairs and prams too!

This is a picture on my way up. I love the colour of the dome against the trees.

Top picture: Seville Cathedral 

Bottom picture: Jardines del Real Alcalzar 

Roof top swimming pools. Jealous.

Seville Cathedral and its gardens. Further in the back you can see the bullfighting arena, El Real Maestranza. 

Seville Cathedral and la Giralda.

On Sunday I visited Seville Cathedral and la Giralda. I managed to get in free (instead of €8) as I am considered a Sevillana, Seville citizen. How cool? Had to argue with the girl at the counter for half an hour, debating on the subject, but I won!

Seville Cathedral was built on the remains of an old mosque which was in bad shape due to an earthquake. It is now considered the third largest church in the world, and believe me it is huge. It was created to show the wealth of Sevilla and was completed in the 16th century.

La Giralda is the bell tower which used to be an old minaret. For more information you can google it. I've added a couple of pictures. It was very hard to capture the size and richness of the architecture and small details.

Here is the tomb of Christopher Columbus. An Englishman who discovered the potato in America huh? Little inside joke for people who follow the Apprentice!

Help us.

I saw the men again with the funny box and managed to take a picture! 

No animal market.

Sunday morning I wondered round for hours trying to find this Animal Market, where they sell puppies, kittens, chickens (alive), ducks and all sorts of pets! Thought it be quite fun.

But after 3 hours of walking under a 45°C sun, someone told me it had closed down in April. Great. That was quite frustrating.  So Pauline, I'm sorry there won't be any pictures of cute fluffy animals.

Instead here are a couple of pictures of some more beautiful houses in Sevilla. These were taken in el barrio del Arenal.